Position the banding on the border of the maple and pencil mark where you want the mitre cut. I have made a simple jig for cutting the mitres. Place a knife blade against the rule to cut the banding. I have moved the rule out of the way and simply hammer lightly the knife thru the banding making a clean mitred cut. In this picture, it is hard to see, but I am hammering a knife blade exactly like the one that is laying down on the board next to the hammer through the banding to make a clean mitre cut.
Continue to mark the banding for the mitre cuts and fit the banding around the maple insert. Or you can do it this way - using the knife to mark the banding instead of a pencil mark - this is more accurate, but takes a bit of practice.
Notice that I have used some scotch tape to temporarily hold the banding in place while marking it for the cut. You may have to adjust the mitre cuts using a block with sandpaper glued to it.
Getting the banding glued onto the drawer front: I am using Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, but any yellow wood glue will do. Rather than applying the glue directly to the banding, it is easier to lay down a bead of glue onto your scrap plywood, then press the banding into the glue bead - just make sure you have an even light coat of glue on the back of the piece of banding. Then place the banding with the glue onto the drawer front. Repeat this for the other banding pieces.
If necessary, use tape to hold the banding in-place until you clamp it. Then clamp it up and let it set a while.
If you don't let is set too long say 10 or 15 minutes or so the next step is easier! When you remove this from the clamps, you will have some glue squeeze, which I am removing with a metal rule which acts as a scraper.
You can use a scraper, chisel, or whatever - just get the excess glue out of there so when we apply the walnut veneer, it will fit snugly against the banding. I have prepared some walnut veneer strips, just a little wider than the area where the walnut will be applied. Cut the mitres in the walnut strips using a procedure similar to the one used to mark and mitre the banding.
Once you have the strips of walnut veneer mitred to fit, brush on glue around the border of the drawer where the walnut veneer will be applied. Put the walnut veneer in place. Some craftsmen also use a saw kerf. Depending on the length of the borders used, and the complexity of the pattern, it may not be possible match the last joint. It is possible to inlay simple strips into short radius curves by first soaking them in water and bending them over a hot form approximately degrees.
Before the glue dries when it is in its gummy state carefully remove any excess, since finish will not adhere properly to glue. If the border is higher than the surrounding area, it can be reduced in height by using a metal scraper or by sanding.
It is recommended that staining of the surrounding piece if desired, be accomplished prior to the installation of the inlay strip to avoid contamination. If necessary coat the inlays with a clear finish before inserting if you need to stain after the inlays are in place.
Final protection clear coat can be applied as usual with whatever the craftsman desires, i. Although the process is not very complex, it is exacting to get a clear and sharp inlay presentation. Be particularly careful when routing the grooves, as you want them to be a good fit for the inlay strips. Your email address will not be published. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Silicone and grout are actually two different things, although you can sometimes use silicone in place of grout.
There is also a difference between grout and caulk, but these terms are sometimes Skip to content. Availability of Wood Inlay Strips. Tools Required. Step 1: Draw Your Guidelines. Step 2: Cut Your Edges. Step 3: Route Your Groove.
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